Camino de Santiago Primitivo: Day 32

Lugo—Castrelo         11 miles     

30 October 2017

Pumbkins along the Camino Primitivo
It was very close to Halloween and pumkins were ready for harvest.

Today was a shorter day. It felt easy to go eleven miles and before I knew it, I was in Castrelo. It was not a very interesting route today. There were some nice woodlands, but it was mostly farmlands and meadows. 

Galician horreo or granary.
The horreos in Galicia were built differently from those in Asturias.
These are long an skinny.

There were two albergues in Castrelo and that was all—no shops, cafes, bars, nothing else. One albergue was private and had a café/bar; the other was a sparser municipal albergue. 

I was hungry and looking forward to ordering the menu del dia at the café. I sat down and waited. No one came to my table. I went over to ask a woman if they were serving, but she was just a guest. Some men at the bar said that they had stopped serving at 2:30. But I had sat down before that! They pointed at some raggedy looking bocadillos and tired salads in a glass case and told me that dinner would start at 8:00. It finally became apparent that they did not work there either. (Later I learned out that the owner had left until evening!)

Because I was so tired, my frustration took over and I stomped out. I would not give them my business for the night! I walked over to the public albergue and registered. It was a basic accommodation, but it was very clean and there was a heater. As winter approached, heated sleeping spaces were important now.

Receipt for Albergue Castrelo
Receipt for Albergue Guntin in Castrelo. Six euros for a bed--nice!

The kitchen was small, but I could make do with  my own provisions…instant soup, chorizo, cucumber, and carrot. I was happy enough. No one was there, so I caught up with my journal. “Maybe tomorrow,” I thought, “I will get a decent menu del dia.

In a little while, Caspar, a Danish pilgrim arrived. He was very hungry and went over to the café/bar at 8:00 to get dinner. It turned out they were not serving dinner this evening! I was so glad I had given up on them already. I offered Caspar some of my measly soup and he was grateful—he did not have a stash of provisions with him.


I was running low on food, but not worried at all. I had enough for breakfast and a small lunch.  The pilgrim’s guidebook said that the next town, A Seixes, was only  about 8 miles away and had shops, cafés, a nice albergue, and a food truck in the evenings. No problem!

From my journal (I wrote a lot more about Mom in my journal, but the entry is shortened here.):

Journal Entry from Day 32

1 thought on “Camino de Santiago Primitivo: Day 32”

  1. What a lovely tribute to your Mother; arrived at as the result of profound soul searching, the kind that may only possible after putting on foot in front of the other all day long.

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