Camino de Santiago Primitivo

Day 31

This is a camino of gratitude for me. Each day, I choose something I am grateful for in my life and think and journal about it throughout the day. I will share an excerpt from my journal entries at the end of each day’s post.

Day 31: Lugo—Castrelo ~ 11 miles

30 October 2017

Pumkins in a field near Lugo
It was very close to Halloween and pumkins were ready for harvest.

Today was a shorter day. It felt easy to go eleven miles and before I knew it, I was in Castrelo. It was not a very interesting route today. There were some nice woodlands, but it was mostly farmlands and meadows. 

Horreo in Galicia Spain
The horreos in Galicia were built differently from those in Asturias. These are long an skinny.

There were two albergues in Castrelo and that was all—no shops, cafes, bars, nothing else. One albergue was private and had a café/bar; the other was a sparser municipal albergue. 

I was hungry and looking forward to ordering the menu del dia at the café. I sat down and waited. No one came to my table. I went over to ask a woman if they were serving, but she was just a guest. Some men at the bar said that they had stopped serving at 2:30. But I had sat down before that! They pointed at some raggedy looking bocadillos and tired salads in a glass case and told me that dinner would start at 8:00. It finally became apparent that they did not work there either. (Later I learned out that the owner had left until evening!)

Because I was so tired, my frustration took over and I stomped out. I would not give them my business for the night! I walked over to the public albergue and registered. It was a basic accommodation, but it was very clean and there was a heater. As winter approached, heated sleeping spaces were becoming important.

Receipt for my bed in Castrelo
Receipt for Albergue Guntin in Castrelo. Six euros for a bed--nice!

The kitchen was small, but I could make do with  my own provisions…instant soup, chorizo, cucumber, and carrot. I was happy enough. No one was there, so I caught up with my journal. “Maybe tomorrow,” I thought, “I will get a decent menu del dia.

In a little while, Caspar, a Danish pilgrim arrived. He was very hungry and went over to the café/bar at 8:00 to get dinner. It turned out they were not serving dinner this evening! I was so glad I had given up on them already. I offered Caspar some of my measly soup and he was grateful—he did not have a stash of provisions with him.

I was running low on food, but not worried at all. I had enough for breakfast and a small lunch.  The pilgrim’s guidebook said that the next town, A Seixes, was only  about 8 miles away and had shops, cafés, a nice albergue, and a food truck in the evenings. No problem!

I wrote a lot more about Mom in my journal, but the entry is shortened here:

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Part of my menu del dia in Azura. Steak on top of cooked cabbage.

Camino: Days 34—35

Arriving in Melide yesterday meant that I was now finished with the Camino Primitivo route and had joined the Camino Frances—the busiest and most well-known of all the Caminos. I had seen the last of the days when I would be walking alone almost all day with plenty to contemplate.

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Cemetery on Dia de los Muertos.

Camino: Day 33

My walk from Castrelo to A Sexias turned out to be a walk from Castrelo to Melide–all for the sake of food! It was probably my second most frustrating day on the Camino!

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My journal along with a sweet and cafe con leche in a cafe in Villaviciosa

Camino: Day 18

The days are feeling more fall-like with cooler days and nights, but fair weather is holding and it is quite comfortable for hiking. At least once a day I come across bursts of orange in fields and gardens, reminding me of home.

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Picture of Cathy Fulton

Cathy Fulton

I am Cathy Fulton and I became a world nomad in 2014. Traveling has become a way of life for me. Except for the fact that I am a citizen of the United States, I don’t have a residence. I am retired and I like to travel solo and independently. I don’t know how many times I have heard, “You are living my dream.” My reply is, “It doesn’t have to be a dream. It can be a reality!"

1 thought on “Camino: Day 32”

  1. What a lovely tribute to your Mother; arrived at as the result of profound soul searching, the kind that may only possible after putting on foot in front of the other all day long.

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